There are two kinds of DIYer – the perfectionist and the bodger. There’s
no middle ground – by definition if something is not done perfectly it is done
imperfectly and an imperfect job can only ever be a bodge. That’s not to say
that there aren’t degrees of bodgery. It’s a dark art that has many forms, from
the slapdash to the ingenious. I’m sure by now you can guess that I am not a
perfectionist.
My stepfather Dave and my father-in-law Mike are. They properly
research the job at hand, select the correct tools for the job and then go
about their work with meticulous detail. The advantage of this approach is that
you get exactly what you are after, and you know that it’ll work. The
disadvantages to this approach are that a) it tends to take time (ask Dave what
time it is and he’ll explain how to build a watch) and b) it is usually
impossible in Montenegro for logistical, material and temporal reasons. Mike
recoiled in horror one time when I was securing a fitting of pipe with a pair
of pliers rather than a plumbers’ wrench, but the reality was that I would have
had to drive 30km to buy one, and this was time I didn’t have. In Montenegro,
you’ll be forced into bodgery because you can’t find what you need (KIPS and
OKOV between them deserve –and have received – blog posts of their own
detailing their inadequacies), the correct tool might not exist (good luck
finding a pull-saw in Montenegro) and you might only have a limited amount of
time to solve your problem.
This is how I have wound up cleaning our mouldy Skoda’s interior with a
child’s toothbrush (nothing else would get into those hard to reach places),
nailing together plastic sheeting and pallets from a rubbish tip to make a
waterproof woodshed, using a dustpan and brush to clean and bail out our hot
tub of dirt and rainwater and rigging up a plastic barrel with a hose, tap and
spray gun so that guests can shower off before using the tub – none of these
obvious, or optimum, solutions to the problems at hand. Oh, and I’ve finally
succeeded in pumping water from the spring at the bottom of our garden into our
reservoir at the top.
This last item is actually worthy of further explanation.
Our villa is not connected to the mains, for reasons to dull to go into
at length (search May 2009 or so if you really want details) so we rely on
water being pumped from our reservoir, underneath the car parking, via what is
known here as a hidrofor. A hidrofor is a pump that uses bladder
pressure to supply the whole house with equally pressured water – ie, there
ought to be no drop in pressure of all four showers are used at once, say. Hidrofors are simple things with very
few moving parts, the idea being that they should be next to maintenance free
once installed. Naturally ours went wrong continually last year until we
finally found a reliable electrician to sort it out (thanks, Novo). As for the
reservoir itself – well, the problem is that it’s not big enough. It’s not big
enough because back in 2008 our first builder, Bolimir the Bad – definitely a
bodger – talked me out of putting the reservoir underneath the terrace for “structural
reasons” that unsurprisingly turned out to be a load of old bollocks. Instead
of a 70,000 litre tank that easily captured our rainwater from the drainpipes,
then, we wound up with a 16,000 litre tank 30 metres away that had no rain
capture and no other feed either. Thanks, Bolimir, curse your voluminous arse.
After one summer of getting our reservoir continually filled up by
truck, we decided that things had to change once and for all, so when Mike was
here last October I decided to make use of his degree in engineering to brainstorm
a solution which – to his dismay and my glee – turned out to be the most sublime
of bodges. First, I rigged up a rain-recycling system that would take rainwater
in winter and deposit it in our undersized tank. It worked a treat. Bravo, me!
The problem was what do in summer, when the tank ran dry.
Down at the bottom of our garden is a natural spring. Present on this site for several hundred years, it gushes natural mineral water right up until about mid-October, when it too has to wait for the rains again. It was one of the main reasons we bought the house in the first place. The difficulties were twofold if we wanted to use it to fill up our reservoir. First of all, we had to pump the water 35m back up the hill, which required a pretty strong pump. Secondly, the trough into which the water emptied held only about 200 litres, and a pretty strong pump would empty it in about a minute and a half, faster than it would fill up again in summer. Oh, and the trough was full of holes.
The bodge Mike and I came up with was this: situate a strong pump right
next to the spring, and attach the feed not to the trough, but to the tap (which
had a flow rate of at least 20l/min) to ensure continuous flow. We would then
force the highly pressurised water up the hill via a series of valves that
would be half closed, thus forcing the water to travel more slowly and ensure
that it would reach the reservoir, but do so slowly enough to never leave the
pump “breathing” air (which would knacker it).*
We could then manually top up our tank overnight, say, in the height of
summer. It was a theoretically perfect solution to a problem that no-one had
ever bothered or needed to solve before. My speciality!
And yes, that is a dog kennel the pump’s living in.
Back in mid-October I spent a week crawling through brambles laying
pipe and cable and literally 30 seconds after completing the work, the ****ing
spring ran dry. At that stage I broke the world record for continuous inventive
swearing, breaking the old record also held by me.
So that’s the science bit. And the reason I’ve bored you so about it?
Well, we hooked it up again this week now that the spring is in full flow, and
it only ****ing works!! The bodger’s bodger, son of a bodger and in all
likelihood himself father to a future bodger, had put something together that
actually worked!
And I just thought I should tell the world about it, that’s all. Well,
the half a dozen people reading this, anyway.
The rest of my time has been taken up with – after pointlessly
complicated DIY – my favourite activity in the world: dealing with Montenegrin
bureaucracy. Imagine the stupidest system, run by the stupidest government,
adhering to the stupidest set of rules ever devised by King Stupid the 28th
of Stupidville (apologies Richard Curtis), and you’re getting close to
describing the experience of dealing with Montenegrin paperwork.
This is how you get a “zdravstvena
knjizica”, or to non-Srpski speakers, the little green book that entitles
you to free healthcare through the contributions you pay employing yourself
through your own company.
- Get your residency permit, work permit, passport and company contract - and several b/w copies of each - and go to Schalter 6 at Bar Opstina to get your little grey work permit book stamped at 11am sharp when they open.
- Hand over your documents. You get a pink slip with €2 of tax to pay.
- Take this yellow slip back to Schalter 6. Wait another 20 minutes after rejoining the queue, and trade it for your little grey work permit book.
- Go to Schalter 9 and hand it over with all the other documents. Wait 20 minutes.
- Head back out of the opstina over the road to a nearby copy-shop to photocopy your passport again, because they need another copy.
- Rejoin the queue for Schalter 9 and hand over your documents again.
- Head back out of the Opstina because they need a different kind of work contract that you didn’t know about.
- Find a “knjizara”, buy a 10 cent copy of the standard worker contract. Fill it out. Badly.
- Rejoin the queue at Schalter 9. Have the fed up lady at Schalter 9 fill it out for you. This will endear you to her even more.
- Receive a two page document that needs an official opstina stamp on it.
- Leave the building a third time to find office 215, which is where you get the stamp for this new document. Stamping this document is not the lady at Schalter 9’s job. Queue outside the door, get the stamp.
- Return to Schalter 9 with the stamp to get the pink slip to pay your €5 tax.
- The woman working at Schalter 9 tells you that if you want to get your wife and child registered through your employment she will need proof of ID for them. You proffer their passports and are told that these won’t be sufficient. You explain that 200 nations around the globe say different, and ask why Montenegro does not consider a passport proof of ID.
- Try really hard not to swear/scream/tear the opstina down with your bare hands when you are told that you need to submit a copy of your marriage certificate and child’s birth certificate. Which you don’t have with you.
- Explain that both of these English documents have the following phrase in capitals all over them – “THIS CERTIFICATE IS NOT PROOF OF IDENTITY”.
- See above entry but one.
- Somehow avoid total meltdown when the lady informs you that as it is now 1pm, the Schalter is shut until tomorrow.
-
Return to Schalter 9 at 11am the next day to get
your pink slip. Hand over copies of aforementioned certificates.
-
Head back out of the opstina to the post office,
the only place where you can pay this €5 tax. Queue for 30 minutes. Fill out
another form, hand over €5 and your pink slip. You get a yellow slip.- Take this yellow slip back to Schalter 9. Wait another 20 minutes after rejoining the queue, and trade it for your 2 page document again.
- Now head off to the Fond Zdravstveno in the centre of Bar. Hand over your document and tell the lady you’d like your little green books stamped, please.
- Club the bitch to death when she tells you that you can come back in 2 days to collect them because she has a “pauza” now and then the office shuts for the day.
- Not really. An eye roll or two usually suffices at this stage.
- Come back two days later to collect your little green books.
Abandon hope all ye who enter here
Now, you could sit a dimmer-than-average rhesus monkey down at a desk,
keep it tripped out on tamazapam and ask it to type up a set of legal documents
in whatever language it felt appropriate and you would still not come up with a
system as bafflingly idiotic as that which every resident of Montenegro has to
go through every time they want anything with an official stamp on it. There
are ancient carved stones that have been kept in 3000yr old amphoras that make
more sense than this. Even Lost makes
more sense than this. And in May I have to go back and get our visas renewed.
Pray for me.
Next time: we move house again and get our hot tub working (we hope)!
*those of you muttering “what about self-priming pumps?” ought to know
that such a thing is – unbelievably – not available anywhere in Montenegro.

4 comments:
Sorry, but re filling in forms: ha ha! So you don't recommend anyone relocating to your neck of the woods to do the freelance work in milder climes then? (I'm fed up with the snow...)
I have considered France but stories about post offices requiring your neighbour's hamster's marriage license (which I don't have, and obviously you need that to do anything with forms and permits...) have put me off.
These systems are why so much is done on the black here. Most can't be bothered to go through such a palaver - and we have to get our health books restamped every three months. Why? Because, that's why!
All good until your appendix needs taking out I suppose... Is it a foreigner thing or for local self-employed too?
Good morning, how are you?
My name is Emilio, I am a Spanish boy and I live in a town near to Madrid. I am a very interested person in knowing things so different as the culture, the way of life of the inhabitants of our planet, the fauna, the flora, and the landscapes of all the countries of the world etc. in summary, I am a person that enjoys traveling, learning and respecting people's diversity from all over the world.
I would love to travel and meet in person all the aspects above mentioned, but unfortunately as this is very expensive and my purchasing power is quite small, so I devised a way to travel with the imagination in every corner of our planet. A few years ago I started a collection of used stamps because trough them, you can see pictures about fauna, flora, monuments, landscapes etc. from all the countries. As every day is more and more difficult to get stamps, some years ago I started a new collection in order to get traditional letters addressed to me in which my goal was to get at least 1 letter from each country in the world. This modest goal is feasible to reach in the most part of countries, but unfortunately, it is impossible to achieve in other various territories for several reasons, either because they are countries at war, either because they are countries with extreme poverty or because for whatever reason the postal system is not functioning properly.
For all this, I would ask you one small favor:
Would you be so kind as to send me a letter by traditional mail from Montenegro? I understand perfectly that you think that your blog is not the appropriate place to ask this, and even, is very probably that you ignore my letter, but I would call your attention to the difficulty involved in getting a letter from that country, and also I don’t know anyone neither where to write in Montenegro in order to increase my collection. a letter for me is like a little souvenir, like if I have had visited that territory with my imagination and at same time, the arrival of the letters from a country is a sign of peace and normality and an original way to promote a country in the world. My postal address is the following one:
Emilio Fernandez Esteban
Avenida Juan de la Cierva, 44
28903 Getafe (Madrid)
Spain
If you wish, you can visit my blog www.cartasenmibuzon.blogspot.com where you can see the pictures of all the letters that I have received from whole World.
Finally, I would like to thank the attention given to this letter, and whether you can help me or not, I send my best wishes for peace, health and happiness for you, your family and all your dear beings.
Yours Sincerely
Emilio Fernandez
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